New Puppy Information
~ Taking Your Puppy Home ~
Toilet Training.
It is wise to take your puppy into the garden, immediately after eating. Choose an area and go to
this area each time. The puppy will soon associate, through familiar scents that this area is for toileting.
It is also good for you as it limits the area you need to clean of droppings each day. If having been
asleep your puppy will more than likely need to relieve himself upon waking. Circling and sniffing
are also signs to watch out for as this is also an indication that he needs to relieve himself. If you
are going out, it is a good idea to have an area to confine your puppy. His bed and some toys can
accompany him and also some sheets of newspaper placed on the floor (away from his bed) can be
put down.
Rest Time.
Like human babies, puppies need to sleep and snooze quite often. Their energy is quite
boundless and they soon wear themselves out. It is important that your family recognises
this and that a quiet area that he can call his own, be provided. If he is settled and sleeping
it is important to leave him in peace to rest and revive. Favourite toys in and around his
bed will help him to recognise his own area. Though in saying this, quite often your puppy
will flop anywhere (usually in a main thorough fare) and be oblivious to those having to
manoeuvre around him!!
Rules of the Home.
Like children, puppies need to learn good manners and know what is expected of them in
their behaviour. Bad habits are so easily learnt and the hardest to break. I think it is wise to
decide just what you do and do not wish your puppy to do, as a family member and let him
know from day one what is acceptable and what is not.
With time and patience they are quick to learn and eager to please so as long as the
guidelines are clear and adhered to, you will find rich reward and much pride in your well-
behaved puppy.
Chewing.
From about 3 months of age to about 7 months your puppy will start teething. The baby
teeth will start to loosen and the adult teeth start to move down. This can be gum irritant
(though not painful). Your puppy will start a chewing phase to help the process and relieve
the gums. Shoes, furniture, in short, anything will do! Brisket bones and Chews in plentiful supply
will be a big help during this period, not guaranteed to make safe all possessions I might
add but should go a long way to minimise damage!!
Some Do’s and Don’ts.
It is always lovely to sit and share cuddles but never let your puppy jump down off the
furniture as the impact of his landings, over time, can adversely affect his young bones and
joints which can lead to problems as he becomes older. The same can be said for outside
play if you have retaining walls in the garden, in a chase and play situation, much like
children, puppies believe they are “bullet proof “ and regardless of the height, a “heavy
landing” invariably results. If your home has a lot of stairs it is wise to carry your puppy
up and down rather than have him climbing up and down at will. A lot of stair climbing, again,
is not good for young developing bones.
It is a lot of fun lead training your puppy and can be a source of some hilarious situations
such as tangles and him going one way, you the other! However it is important to keep the
walks fairly short, as he will tire quickly and great distances are beyond him.
A lot of Vet’s have Puppy Pre School classes, a great way to socialise your puppy and it
will teach him to interact with a variety of other puppies and people, plus giving you the
opportunity to meet other owners navigating the “new puppy” pathway.
Dog Parks are also wonderful but it is wise to keep away from these places until after the
second vaccination, this ensures that your puppy is immune to nastier things that may
have been left behind by an vaccinated user.
Hidden Traps.
Whist bones are most important, it is equally important to make very sure COOKED bones
are NEVER given to your puppy. They can splinter and become lodged in the throat or
intestines and do dreadful damage. Also beware of onions, nuts, human chocolate, garlic,
and avocado. These are but a few of the human foods that can be toxic to dogs. It is probably
wise to share few of the foods you eat, with your puppy. Of course meat trimmings from your
plate will always be a choice treat and there is no reason not to share these! Shelties have
the greatest love of food, second only to their love of you!
This may also be a good place to refer to an ingredient used in some Heartworm
preventatives. It is called IVERMECTIN. This substance is not tolerated by Shelties and is
usually lethal. If seeking advice on changing your Heartworm treatment for any reason, it is
a must to ask the question “does this product contain Ivermectin”? Be it at a Pet Shop or
at the Vet, always ask.
Fleas and Ticks.
These little “Nightmares” can be the bain of our lives. Fortunately, in recent years a range
of spot on treatments has become available and invaluable weapons in our armoury!
The use of these treatments, plus daily checking of your puppy will go a long way to
ensure he comes to no harm, the greatest enemy of course is the Paralysis Tick.
In checking your puppy it is important to be thorough in your examination…check ears,
around the mouth, between toes, around the tail, genital area, plus the whole of the body,
by fingering though his fur feeling for any lumps or bumps. The ticks can be as small as
pinheads. Symptoms of Paralysis Tick can be a gagging, choking, cough, vomiting or wobbly legs.
If you suspect your puppy has one of these ticks, a trip to the Vet
without delay is a must. If you have been out for a walk and been through longish grass
it is wise to give a good comb through with a fine tooth comb, from top to tail, as soon as
you come home. If your puppy has picked up a tick it is possible to comb it out as it makes
its way through the fur looking for a place to feed. Keep grass in the yard short and clear leaf
litter from beneath trees, limit mulch where possible too. Warm humid spots such as these,
are favoured breeding spots for these little nasties.
Heat.
We all feel the effects of a hot summer day and your puppy is no exception. Always make
sure his water bowl is topped up, the water cool and fresh daily. If you keep a water bowl
outside try and make sure it is in a spot that is always shady as direct sun can make the
water not just tepid but hot. You can also add a block of ice to his water bowl, half fill a
plastic cup with water and freeze. These blocks are also fun to lick and push around too,
perhaps not the ideal inside toy but outside they are great! Just make sure the blocks are
large as some of the tiny cube tray blocks may be picked up whole and become a choking
hazard.
Another cool idea is to fill and freeze one of the larger milk containers or similar plastic
bottle and wrap well in a towel. If feeling the heat more than usual your puppy will lie next
to this and enjoy it immensely, it can even be put in his bed.
Often the subject of publicity is the act of leaving a dog in a car unattended at any time, for
any length of time, with or without windows up or down. To mention it here may seem like
harping but it cannot be stressed often enough or loudly enough. Heat can and does kill.
De-Sexing.
Usually recommended from six months of age. It is a well-tolerated procedure and causes
little or no distress. It is a popular belief that you should let a Bitch have a litter before de-
sexing, in truth that is not the case. A discussion with your Vet should give you a
professional opinion and indeed “why” it is beneficial to de-sex, even before the first
season. The same advice on discussion with your Vet holds for a Dog.
There are many health benefits associated with de-sexing your puppy. It is often thought
de-sexing can be a cause of weight gain but as with all things weight related, diet and
exercise is the key to a healthy, fit Sheltie.
